Duck (Beijing #2)

No tongues this time (duck tongues, that is). Just lovely Quenjude Peking duck. And a few ducks' feet as well. Food was at the centre of my second Beijing experience.

We had a very busy few days.

Excellent shopping at the Silk Road market - tons of fakes of all different shapes sizes and varieties. Some hard bargaining resulted in Max's pram being laden with jade, a kite, a Buddha head, another fakey Panerai (this one a very, very good copy that I reckon will pass muster at a Swiss customs checkpoint), chopsticks, belts and loads of other stuff.

Bizarrely, in the sweltering heat, Silk Road market seemed to be doing a roaring trade in "Spyder" ski jackets and gloves. I love skiing and as you know I am as vain as Chris Eubank so I was sorely tempted to invest. However, the idea of my knock-off ski jacket revealing itself to be as waterproof and windproof as a sieve at the top of a crispy red run made me shy away. I know this is ridiculous - they are probably made in the same place as the "real" ones. But you just never know.


Up to The Great Wall at Mutianyu in two cars to save Tony, Philippe, Felicia and Kot the pleasure of two hours in the car with Max and Lilli. This being sightseeing Tony style, the itinerary included an excellent lunch stop at the catch-your-own-fish restaurant I visited last time I was passin' through. The food was great. And the Great Wall continues to be great - unanimously voted so by all who surveyed it from our party (see spectacular photos attached) although Lilli and Max were even more impressed by their new sun hats. Clear blue skies meant a much more impressive, even breathtaking view this time and the peacefulness was in stark contrast to downtown Beijing (which takes your breath away through the heavy presence of particulates in the air).

Visit in the afternoon and you will have the place practically to yourself but that does mean that you get the full attention of the tourist tat salespeople on your way up and down. We actually bought a beautiful bedspread by accident. I idly looked over at one hung up and touched it, remarking on how nice it was to Abigail. The sales guy interpreted this as an avid intent to purchase. He wrote down 1500 RMB (£100) as the starting price and I naturally strolled off saying no thanks very much. He followed me at least 30 yards down the road and the price dropped dramatically with every step. Eventually, to get rid of him I offered an insultingly low bid of 200 RMB and he took me by surprise and accepted it. I had to carry the sodding thing all the way back down and as I was doing so it dawned on me that it wouldn't fit into the hand luggage sized cases we had brought to Beijing. Doh!

We were joined for dinner at the Quenjude Duck restaurant by Tony's friend, ex-basketball player (and all round great bloke) Ma Jian who you may remember casts an impressive 6ft 7 shadow. Lilli and Max were in awe. Insert your own rubbish joke here about a 6ft 7 tall man in a duck restaurant. Geddit???

Sunday; to the Forbidden City and the children started to flag after an hour or two in 33 degree heat. The Temple of Heavenly Tranquility was transformed into the Temple of Children Making it Clear That They Would Rather Be Watching Films in the Cool of an Air-conditioned Hotel Room. We left Kot and Philippe seeing more sights and went for a feast at a little place round the corner from the hotel followed by a trip to Haagen Dazs. We ate like kings at the restaurant for 100 RMB. Four ice creams at Haagen Dazs cost 145 RMB. It's just plain wrong.

Abigail, Max and Lilli prefer Beijing to Shanghai. I am outvoted. I think I like Shanghai as much as Beijing but maybe I am taking into account my affection for Shanghai nightlife that was a major part of my last visit. Dunno. I love them both.